The old Sotirios had probably not imagined that his name would be among the biggest in the world of jewelry, and mark both the 20th and 21st centuries.
The name of Bulgari has become a synonym of luxury, with a sense of the Italian way of life. It is famous for its glamorous gemstones used in a combination of colors, which makes their pieces immediately recognizable. Defined as classic yet contemporary, Bulgari maintains its 134-year legacy by creating perfectly timeless pieces for those who have the passion of jewelry.
But how did everything start? Get ready for some history and get acquainted to the house’s most iconic collections over time!
Where it all started
Let me take you to the beginnings.
Sotirios Voulgaris was born in 1857 in a Greek village known as Kalarites. Being the only surviving child in a family of 11 siblings, he was trained to be a silversmith by his father, a jeweler himself. When he was around 20 years old, a devastating fire led father and son to move to the island of Corfu and then to Napoli, South Italy. In 1881, Sotirios finally moved to Rome and changed his name to Sotirio Bulgari. There, he opened his first store in Via Sistina in 1884 and in 1905, supported by his two sons Giorgio and Costantino, he replaced it by the famous shop in Via dei Condotti, which is still their current location.
Sotirios Bulgari
The Original façade in Via dei Condotti
The Original façade in Via dei Condotti
After the 2nd World War, a certain return of resources made the brand’s designs shine brighter. As Paris was the place to be in the 1920’s, Rome was the place to be in the 50’s and 60’s. This period is also known as the Dolce Vita years in Italy, and it was then that Via dei Condotti’s Bulgari shop hosted the international elite of artists, writers and actors. The brand itself became synonym of Italian excellence, and the king of Pop Art Andy Warhol famously said: “When I am in Rome I always visit Bulgari because it is the most important museum of contemporary art”
The guidelines
Bulgari is famous for its recognizable style. It is especially loyal to its Roman origins, which makes the architectural elements of the Eternal City a recurrent theme in their creations. Rome remains in fact the main important aesthetic reference for Bulgari, as we will see later in their iconic collections.
The U in BULGARI was then replaced with a V, as a tribute to the original greek patronym of Voulgaris, and as a reference to Ancient Rome.
Famous Clientele
Legendary actresses Audrey Hepburn, Sofia Loren and Elizabeth Taylor’s names are forever linked to Bulgari. In the 50’s, the house has gained recognition among the local bourgeoisie and the international high society. Elizabeth Taylor was known for her great passion for jewelry and more specifically for Bulgari pieces, after her great love Richard Burton has given her a ring he bought while filming Cleopatra in Rome. She later acquired a big number of jewels from the house. Burton, who became her husband, famously quoted: “The only Italian word Elizabeth knows is Bulgari”!
Elizabeth Taylor’s iconic emerald & diamond set
Audrey Hepburn’s emerald earrings
Sofia Loren’s sapphire set
Iconic Collections
Bulgari creations include iconic features, such as a sense of volume, harmony and refined motifs that remind us of the brand’s Greek and Roman roots. They also later introduced elements from the Parisian and Art Deco style. Bulgari is also famous for their use of colored stones, especially sapphires mixed in unique formats. They are in fact the pioneers in massively using cabochons (polished but not faceted stones) in high-end jewelry. Some themes that have developed over the years have become synonymous of Bulgari style, and they are usually presented together instead of following a chronological order.
Monete Gold Necklace
Tubogas Gold cuff
Serpenti Watch, Pink gold, diamonds & red lacker.
- Monete (Roman Coins): the use of coins in jewels is a tradition that dates back to the Roman era, whom Bulgari proudly claim they descend of.
- Tubogas: this collection revives a method developed in the 9th century, consisting of creating a tubular band in metal without soldering.
- Serpenti: one of the most characteristic collections; snake motives have been used in jewelry for centuries but Bulgari introduced the famous wristwatch.
- Parentesi: a motif that reminds of the shape of a parenthesis
- BVLGARI BVLGARI: this logo first appeared on watches in the late 70’s, and later became a part of the brand’s many jewels and watches
- B.Zero1: this famous ring was inspired by Rome’s Colosseum and was designed from the brand’s watch designer. It has since been realized in various materials by many artists who collaborated with the brand, including the famous architect Zaha Hadid.
Parentesi Bangles
Gold & diamonds
BVLGARI BVLGARI earrings,
gold & onyx
pink gold & diamonds
Legendary Pieces
Many Bulgari pieces became part of the 20th century’s legend, thanks to the Hollywood stars who were passionate about the house’s jewels. Elizabeth Taylor owned many of them, gifted to her by her numerous husbands. After her death, a few of those jewels have been bought again by the house in auctions. They are sometimes lent to current Hollywood actresses, for them to wear them on the red carpet. Let’s take a look at the most iconic ones.
The first ring offered by Richard Burton
Platinum, 7.40 ct Emerald & 12 pear shaped Diamonds 1962
Wedding gift offered by Richard Burton,
Platinum, 16 Colombian emeralds, surrounded by brilliant cut & pear shaped diamonds. 1962
The Trombino (trumpet) ring Platinum.
25ct cabochon cut Saphire brilliant cut & baguette diamonds. 1971
Bulgari continues to be the one of the leading jewelry brands in 21st century. Started as a family business, the brand is a part of the LVHM group today and has extended its heritage of glamour by opening luxurious resorts and hotels in different cities of the world.
Some sketches from the brand’s designers along the years
For more information and pictures, visit www.bulgari.com.
© 2021 Paola Sleiman. All rights reserved.
